Why food deserts persist in low-income New York neighborhoods

New York News

NEW YORK (PIX11) — Hundreds of thousands of New York City and state residents live in so-called food deserts. These low-income areas—usually Black and Hispanic neighborhoods—lack access to large supermarkets and options for healthy, affordable food.

People living in these areas often turn to more expensive convenience stores, pharmacies, or dollar stores with healthy little selection. “There is a staunch unequality issue when it comes to access of food,” says LaToya Meaders. She knows all about food deserts, having grown up in one in Staten Island.

“There isn’t like a fresh salad in these communities,” Meaders said. “Think about when you go into a corner bodega. Think about the options that are inside that store: potato chips, high fructose corn syrup drinks, and everything that is not good for the body.” 

Meaders runs Collective Fare, a catering business in Brownsville that she expanded into a café and implemented food outreach during the pandemic. “We focus on health and wellness cooking. We focus on providing access to people,” she said.

That’s important because lack of access to healthy food can cause real health problems, according to Gina Lovasi, a Ph.D. and professor of Urban Health at Drexel University. “Access to fresh foods, in particular, is related to obesity and to other risk factors,” she said. “Hypertension and diabetes, which we know have consequences for cardiovascular disease risk, for some cancers and even some transmissible diseases such as COVID-19.”

An estimate from the New York Times in 2009 put the number of New Yorkers living in food deserts in the city at about 750,000. Many more were in areas that needed help with greater access to healthy food.

So why aren’t there full-service supermarkets providing fresh produce and other nutritious items? Supermarket analyst, author, and podcaster Phil Lempert says it all boils down to money. “The reason that they’re now called food deserts is they don’t have full-service supermarkets because they don’t make money there. That’s the bottom line,” he said.

Lempert said major supermarkets face a slew of extra costs that hinder their ability to serve food deserts. Those costs include maintenance, security, and crime. He said there’s another issue with selling fresh produce in food deserts: “The problem when it comes to produce is that people who are in a food desert don’t eat produce.”

Whether that’s because of tastes or conditioning from lack of access, Lempert said changing tastes isn’t easy. But there are advocates who are trying to make changes in these areas.

Hostos Community College in the South Bronx started a food studies program and offers fresh food on campus. The director of the college’s health and wellness center, Fabian Wander, said he believes reliance on fast food has an impact on students. “There are very limited options as far as healthy alternatives,” he added.

Other ideas for change include New York City supporting “green carts” selling produce and community gardens.

Lempert said legislative funding for supermarkets and groceries in areas of need may be the next step. “We’re going to have to rely on our government programs that are going to help these supermarkets be able to stay in a food desert, and make some money while they’re there,” he said.

Copyright 2021 Nexstar Media Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.

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